Caring For Your Guitar / Bass / Mandolin

Temperature, Humidity and Environment Lack of knowledge (or concern) for an instruments environment certainly keeps me knee deep in repairs and should be taken seriously if you would like to preserve your instrument cosmetically and structurally.

Damage done to an instrument as a result of too little, or too much, humidity is not covered by the manufacturers warranty. Cracks resulting from a lack of humidity are not due to a manufacturing defect but are considered neglect and educating yourself could save you some heartaches...and pocket change.

TEMPERATURES

Hot Temperatures Do not leave your instrument in a hot car, direct sunlight, anywhere near a woodstove, heater, an attic or other area where temperatures are high. 
 

Excessive heat can soften glue joints and allow things to slide around. One of the most common predicaments I see on flattop guitars as a result of excessive heat is a sliding bridge. Once heated the bridge can lift or actually begin to slide towards the soundhole, scrunching the paint as it slides and twisting the bridge pins into a crooked shape. And while this is easily spotted there are other areas of the instrument that can be adversely affected as well. Frets, neck joints, braces and literally anywhere glue is used can be affected in a way that is difficult to reverse.

 
Heat allowed the bridge on this guitar to slide forward and damage the finish.

Cold Temperatures Finish checking and cracks can form as a result of temperature shock. Taking a cold instrument and introducing it to a warm environment suddenly can cause the finish to craze or check.
When instruments are shipped or transported during the winter it is highly advisable to let the instrument slowly warm up to room temperature before removing it from the shipping carton or case.
Generally, finish checking is a result of sudden severe changes in temperature.

HUMIDITY

Low Humidity Whether it's due to a lack of knowledge or a lack of concern many have ignored the advice and comments made by luthiers to humidify their instrument in the dry season. (45-50% is usually the target.)

Flat top guitars have a slight radius or "arch" to them, when they begin to dry out they flatten. In this picture the instrument had dried out to the point of becoming concave, it also developed a nice top crack as a result.

More on top cracks caused by dryness

HOW DRY I AM.........♪

Symptoms of dryness: These are the symptoms I think a consumer is most likely to observe...

* Top grain prominent - This resembles a washboard in my mind. These are raised lines in the top which are noticeable to the touch. The soft wood between the darker grain lines has lost it's moisture and the grain now stands prominent. Warning: once this becomes severe cracks are usually imminent. Take heed, this may be your last chance to avoid cracks.

* Sharp fret ends -The fingerboard has shrunk due to the loss of moisture but obviously the metal fret wire does not. The frets are now wider than the fingerboard and the sharp ends can become apparent. yow! This is particularly noticeable on unbound fingerboards.

* Action has dropped - The top has begun to flatten out as it looses moisture and the action is lowered as a result. The fingerboard extension (portion of the fingerboard which is glued directly to the top) may also sink a bit causing a bend in the area where the neck and body join.

* Top is concave - Yes, after dead flat comes concave. If you've gotten to this point without a crack you are very lucky.

* Top cracks - After a fair amount of moisture loss the top begins to flatten, the soft grain begins to shrink and eventually the pull is so great that a crack forms in line with the grain. 
If left unattended these cracks can spread open and create even more costly and highly visible repairs.

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