Neck Resets
Resetting Acoustic Guitar Necks
Continued from page 1

STEP 4: Reshaping the heel

The whole reason we've removed the neck is to reset it at a steeper angle (pitch it back), so that it will allow the plane of the fingerboard to generally just overshoot the top of the bridge. There are allot of factors that determine what angle is ideal here as instruments will vary in the amount of top and neck flex which would obviously effect this setting.
If it is possible to see the instrument strung to pitch before resetting it's neck you can assess the deformity of the top and nature of the instrument under tension, these measurements can be a great aid when choosing the ideal angle. On an overly stiff top that does not arch or rise a fair amount under tension, setting the neck at a "typical" angle may leave you with a very high saddle. And of course the opposite is true when the instrument flexes more than usual. While much of the process is mathematical it's experience that makes the difference.

Now that the neck is off it's time to start removing some wood. A small slice is removed from the end of the heel closest to the back in order to tilt the neck back and increase it's angle. How much wood is removed? Hmmm, exactly! This amount will vary depending on how high the action was to begin with and how long of a heel you have.

STEP 5: Shaping the heel to match the sides

After cutting the heel to arrive at your desired angle the task of cosmetic fitting takes place. On some guitars the portion of the sides that contact the heel are flat, but that's usually not the case. In effort to cut corners here some manufactures may fill the gap with filler or glue. Yuck!

Chipped Finish
Glue, which is sometimes used to conceal a gap can adhere to the finish and cause it to chip when the neck is removed.
 Luckily the area is usually concealed by the heel, if not we've got some touch up work ahead.

A No-No, Putty Filler
Woof! Filler/putty is caked along both sides of this heel to conceal a gap between the heel and sides of the guitar.
Although a poor cosmetic fit does not necessarily effect the neck angle or the structural strength of the joint it does say a thing or two, like...poor craftsmanship!

Wide heels, such as those found on most Gibson acoustics will usually require a bit more time to fit due to their increased contact surface. Maple necks may require several chisels or repeated sharpening due to their hardness and difficulty to cut. Quite frankly these wider maple heels require far more effort than say a Martin.

When I do the cosmetic fitting, I usually just set the neck in the neck block, eyeball the fit, remove the neck and sand where necessary. Sometimes it's a snap, other times you will replace and remove the neck far too many times to count.  I make my initial cuts with a chisel and then switch to files and sandpaper sticks.
Some brittle finishes will do their best to chip even when sanding them lightly, such is life and touch up may be necessary.

STEP 6: Shimming the joint for a snug fit

We've acquired the correct angle and a good cosmetic fit now we're ready to shim the neck pocket for a good snug fit. Shims allow us to control the tightness of the fit which is not only important to keep the neck in place but also allow future removal....should that ever be necessary. Unfortunately overly tight joints can be very, very difficult to separate and removal can cause damage

Close Up's of Neck Heels After Resetting the Neck

I offer neck resets on most major manufacturer's guitars as many others with which I am familiar. As I stated previously it is important to know the type of joint and the assembly method of an instrument before ever thinking about pulling it apart. While it is the exception rather than the rule, some instruments may have neck joints that are very difficult to remove. The Martin Shenandoah guitar is one example. The Shenandoah line was built in Japan and sent back to the Martin factory where the neck was glued to the body and the instruments was painted. This instrument uses a neck joint which is basically a compression or squeeze fit and does not lend itself to removal. This is one that even the factory does not reset.

This Ovation neck joint shows the liberal amount of epoxy used to glue the neck in place.
 

  FAIR WARNING:

While most of the information contained on this page is written in a step by step fashion it is not intended to teach the art of neck setting, so please don't try this on your instrument.
Knowledge is great but experience is indispensable.